MEASUREMENT TAKING

Bust: This is the measurement of the total bust circumference. Measure over the fullest part of bust, keeping the tape level at the back. Stand at the side of the person so that you can ensure that the tape measure does not slip down at the back.

Front bust arc: Measure front bust arc over the fullness of the bust from underarm point to underarm point.

Back bust arc: Measure from under arm point to under arm point at the back. For accuracy, you can deduce this measurement by subtracting the front bust arc from the total bust circumference.

Bust Radius: This is a measurement from the bust tip downwards to right under the fullness of the bust.

Under Bust: This is a measurement of the circumference of the ribcage right under the bust.

Bust Point: Measure from the front neck point to the nipple.

Bust Span: This is the distance between the nipples.

Neck Circumference: Take the measurement of the circumference of the neck.

Across Chest: Measure approximately 4 inches below the shoulder point.

Across Back: Measure the width of the back halfway between the shoulder and back bust line.

Front Shoulder: Take this measurement from shoulder point to shoulder point with the individual facing you.

Back Shoulder: Take this measurement from shoulder point to shoulder point with the individual backing you.

Nape to waist Length: Measure from the nape (the base) of the neck, to the waistline. It can be located by feeling for the last vertebrae at the base of the neck when the neck is bent forward. The neck should be straightened as soon as the nape is located so that a realistic measurement can be recorded. The base of the neck is where a chain would rest.

Full Front Length: Measure from the front neck point, over the fullest part of the bust, to the waistline.

Full Back length: Measure from the same neck point at the side of the neck from which the full front length was taken. This time, the tape rule will go down the back to the cord located on the waistline. This measurement allows a pattern maker to control the rise of the neckline from the nape. The standard measurement for the back neck rise is ¾” for older children and adults of both sexes (0.5” for little children). However a measurement of the full back length will give an exact measurement when dealing with individuals. If the nape to waist measurement is subtracted from the full back length measurement, the difference will be used as the neck rise. Where there is a muscular development of the shoulder and neck, or where there is a forward neck, the difference between the full back length and the nape to waist will be significantly more than the standard.

Waist: Take measurement around natural waistline of the figure. The waist is taken from the hollow of the back. The navel is not necessarily at the waistline. So do not drop the tape rule to the navel. The navel is attached to the womb and the muscular frame of the waist area. Due to lack of exercise, age or child birth, the muscles may slacken and so the navel drop lower. A slack waistline can be camouflaged by using the original waistline position which is on the same level as the back hollow. Take the waist measurement keeping the tape parallel to the floor in front.

Hip: Take measurement around the fullest part of the hip. On the pattern, this is located approximately 8 inches below the waistline for adult females (9” for adult males). These amounts are an approximation. A good formula to use in getting the actual waist to hip measurement is to take a third of the waist to knee measurement.

Bicep: The fullest part of the arm, approximately 4 inches down from the shoulder point. Bunch up the bicep when taking this measurement.

Sleeve: Take this measurement from the shoulder point to the wrist bone. The hand should be bent at the elbow while this measurement is being taken.

Front shoulder slant: Take from shoulder point to waistline. This can be used to correct the pattern where there are unusually square or sloping shoulders. When using the front shoulder slant measurement, if there is an underarm bust dart included in the pattern, remember to add the dart amount to the shoulder slant amount, otherwise, the shoulder slant will be reduced by the dart amount when the dart is sewn up. This will result in a tight armhole.

Back shoulder slant: Take from shoulder point to waistline. This can be used to correct the pattern where there are unusually square or sloping shoulders.

Lower abdomen: this measurement is taken approximately 4” down from the waistline.

Knee Circumference: Take the measurement of the circumference of the knee. Do not fold the leg at the knee. Take the measurement of the knee circumference again, this time with the leg folded backwards at the knee. The difference in both measurements gives you an idea of how much ease you need around the knee to allow for free movement.

Thigh Circumference: Take the measurement of the fullest part of the thigh. This is approximately 3” down from the crotch.

Body Rise: This measurement is taken from the side waist point down to the seat of the chair.

Side waist to knee: Take this measurement down the center front form the waistline down to the knee. This gives a reliable measurement for establishing skirt lengths.

Side waist to ankle takes this measurement from the waistline to the ankle. Take this measurement down the side.

Side waist to floor: takes this measurement from the side waist point to the floor.

Centre front waist to floor: Take this measurement from the center front waist point to the floor with out shoes.

Center back waist to floor: take this measurement from the center back waist point to floor with out shoes.

GETTING THE MEASUREMENT TECHNIQUE RIGHT

With so many measurements to take, measurement taking may be tedious for some, however it gives an opportunity to observe the body closely and note any peculiarities. Taking so many measurements reduces the fitting problems later as some adjustments to the peculiar body shape can be made at flat patternmaking stage.